David Raymond, Deborah McDonough - Bradford
The glow from exfoliation is undeniable. With so many exfoliants on the market, the question remains: are we using the correct exfoliant for our skin type?
There are two kinds of exfoliation, physical and chemical. The majority of individuals prefer physical exfoliants, as the term ‘chemical’ can sound daunting, especially regarding skincare. While physical exfoliants remain a popular choice, chemical exfoliants offer a more targeted and often gentler alternative, particularly for darker skin tones, sensitive skin, active acne, or rosacea.
Our skin is constantly renewing itself, with cells forming and replacing the older ones at an average rate of 28 days.1 Disruptors such as pollution, stress, lack of sleep, and lifestyle choices often interrupt this cycle. Regular exfoliation is critical in maintaining the skin’s natural rejuvenation rate by helping loosen superficial cells, allowing new cells to surface faster. This consistent process not only smooths uneven texture and tightens pores but also fades acne scarring and reduces the appearance of wrinkles, resulting in a brighter complexion.
This movement toward gentler, more intentional skin care reflects a broader trend known as skinimalism, a philosophy that champions simplicity, minimal product use, and respect for the skin’s natural barrier. Rather than relying on aggressive routines or ingredient overload, skinimalism promotes fewer, multifunctional products designed to maintain skin health through balance and barrier support.
The term ‘chemical’ often provokes caution among consumers, especially in facial care.
Chemical exfoliants use acids or enzymes to dissolve bonds between cells, while physical exfoliants involve manually scrubbing to remove granular substances in pores.
Only 18% of body cleansing consumers seek chemical exfoliation, and of this percentage of consumers, 49% who seek out chemical exfoliants are also seeking physical exfoliation.2 This data underscores a clear hesitation among consumers, highlighting the need for education around the safety, efficacy, and skin benefits of chemical exfoliants.
Many brands unintentionally reinforce consumer fear by promoting their products with misleading terms rather than educating users on the true nature and safety of ingredients. It is essential to recognize that common marketing claims such as ‘chemical-free’ are scientifically inaccurate.
In reality, everything from water to air to a phone screen are made up of chemical substances. When brands use this term, they are looking to emphasize the absence of specific harmful compounds.
Yet, this phrasing means the product is entirely free of substances, which is logically impossible. Even popular ingredients for physical exfoliants like walnuts and clay are technically chemical compositions. A more accurate approach would be to highlight that products are free from harmful chemicals, while acknowledging that all ingredients are inherently chemical in nature.
Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) have historically dominated the chemical exfoliant category; however, polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are emerging as the next-generation alternative for sensitive or barrier-compromised skin.3,4
PHAs such as gluconolactone, lactobionic acid and galactose are sugar-derived molecules that provide gentle exfoliation while delivering strong humectant benefits. Gluconolactone, a mild exfoliant ideal for sensitive skin, helps renew the skin’s surface without irritation.5
Many PHAs also act as humectants, attracting and retaining moisture by drawing water from air into the skin or hair. Hyaluronic acid and glycerin are common examples of humectants; even honey, which contains gluconic acid, is naturally derived.
Due to their larger molecular structure, PHAs also function as antioxidants and moisture-binding agents; they penetrate the skin at a slower rate and not as deeply, ultimately leaving the product on the skin for longer. PHAs further reinforce the incorrectness of chemical exfoliants, causing harm.
The future is pointing towards even gentler ingredients than previously used. PHAs perform well in hybrid formats, combining mechanical and chemical exfoliations in one. They are often described as ‘scrubs’ that loosen the connective tissues of the skin to exfoliate more deeply.
Overall, PHAs represent the next generation of exfoliating ingredients, delivering measurable skin-smoothing and antioxidant benefits.
An alternative to PHAs, AHAs primary function is to exfoliate dead skin cells and help retain moisture, making them suitable for dry and aging skin. AHAs are known to stimulate collagen production in the skin and reduce the overall look of fine lines and wrinkles.6
AHAs have been found to be effective in the treatment for sun-damaged skin. However, higher forms of AHAs can cause skin irritation and increase sun sensitivity, making sunscreen use even more necessary for people using this type of exfoliation.
On the other hand, BHAs work similarly to AHAs except they are lipid-soluble, while AHAs tend to be water-soluble.7 BHAs’ chemical structure allows for penetration into the skin through sebaceous follicles and are beneficial for those with oily skin and open pores.
BHAs exfoliate deep in the skin’s surface and help treat acne and clogged skin. BHAs in personal care products have been found to work best at a concentration of 1% to 2% due to their skin irritancy effect. BHAs like AHAs can lead to increased sensitivity if used too long or excessively. This is where PHAs come in to save the day for those with sensitive skin, or conditions including acne, rosacea or eczema.
Consumers tend not to believe what they cannot see. They tend to equate the sensation of manual scrubbing with efficacy, preferring the instant feedback that physical exfoliants provide. This ‘feel-it work’ effect leads to the widespread use of ingredients like charcoal, volcanic ash, and jojoba beans, which deliver a gratifying, yet often misleading, surface-smoothing sensation.
While these ingredients are familiar and perceived as natural and non-toxic, their recognizability fosters a false sense of security. The reliance on the physical sensation can mask the fact that effectiveness is not determined by texture alone, and that “natural” does not always equal safe or beneficial for all skin.
Physical exfoliants remove cells by various degrees of abrasion depending on the type. They provide even exfoliation and often give faster and immediate results. They are helpful when it comes to problem areas and spots on the skin such as hyperpigmentation on the face or neck which many physical ingredients can help fade.
Physical scrubs often use coarse particles that generate micro-tears and irritation, chemical exfoliants work without abrasive friction, targeting bonds holding together dead skin cells to encourage natural renewal.
Even popular ingredients like crushed walnut shells, which may be marketed as natural and beneficial, can inadvertently cause inflammation due to their jagged edges if not appropriately rounded.
Although many consumers gravitate toward physical exfoliants for the immediate tactile feedback they provide, findings display that chemical exfoliants offer a superior approach to skin health for certain types of skin, particularly those with sensitive skin, active acne, rosacea or skin prone to inflammation or redness.8
Chemical exfoliants provide a gentler approach to skin health compared to their physical counterparts. Chemical exfoliants deliver smoother, more controlled results, allowing for healthier, more resilient skin. Unlike physical scrubs, these ingredients penetrate the skin to dissolve the sebum clogging pores.
Ingredients such as salicylic acid are oil-soluble, allowing them to reach deeper into pores, providing comedolytic, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial effects. This makes them preferable for sensitive or darker skin types prone to scarring and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
Many of the chemical exfoliants are identical to mild acids found in nature. Gluconic acid is derived from sugars, lactic acid from milk, salicylic acid is found in many plants, and malic acid from mostly apples. Some chemical exfoliants harness the power of mandelic acid, a gentle AHA known for its larger molecular size.
This slower absorption rate allows for effective exfoliation with a lower risk of irritation, making it especially suitable for sensitive skin types. Similarly, salicylic acid, a BHA, penetrates deep into pores to exfoliate from within, regulate sebum production, and target blemishes, making it a powerful solution for acne-prone and oily skin.
Many of the ‘synthetic’ ingredients are typically made by fermentation so the manufacturing process mimics nature. By preserving the skin barrier and avoiding micro-tears, chemical exfoliants support a healthier, brighter complexion.
While chemical exfoliants are technically milder and less aggressive, consumers associate the word chemical with bad and acid with destructive; brands should shift their messaging of chemical exfoliants to friendlier terms, such as healthy skin, unclogging, gently removing dirt, grime, and dead skin cells.
Additionally, individuals with nut allergies should exercise caution when selecting exfoliating products. Some physical exfoliants contain ground walnut shells, which can pose a risk, while certain chemical exfoliants, such as mandelic acid, are derived from bitter almonds.
Although mandelic acid is typically processed to remove allergenic proteins, it is still advisable for those with nut sensitivities to consult product labels or dermatologists before use.
However, there are clear benefits to both, and those benefits depend on the type of skin and the needed treatment. Some modern exfoliants combine mechanical and chemical actions with hydrating, soothing, barrier-repair benefits to deliver a balanced, ‘skin-friendly experience’.
Certain trending chemical exfoliants include mandelic acid and phytic acid, while trending physical exfoliants include jojoba beads, rice powder, and a move to more natural and biodegradable derived materials.
The future of exfoliants will be centered around multifunctional ingredients. In many cleansers and exfoliant personal care products, it is best to stay away from adding too many ingredients.
Recent research has found ingredients that serve multiple purposes of providing benefits such as hydration, anti-inflammatory effects, and skin radiance without adding multiple ingredients.
For example, rice serves as a multifunctional ingredient, a moderately aggressive natural polysaccharide that retains moisture with an outer coating that removes dead skin cells gently.
It is time to reframe how we think about exfoliation. Chemical exfoliants, long overshadowed by their physical counterparts, offer a gentle, science-backed solution for many skin types, notably sensitive skin.
By moving beyond the negative connotation and misconception by embracing ingredient transparency, brands can prioritize what truly matters: skin health for all types. Although the scrub sensation of physical exfoliants satisfies consumers with their skin care routine, chemical exfoliants are often gentler and more impactful in achieving clear skin.
Newer ingredients, including polyhydroxy acids, have been found to be gentler on the skin and best for those with skin issues. Ultimately, reframing exfoliation through the lens of efficacy and inclusivity allows us to leave behind harmful misconceptions and embrace what truly delivers innovative, gentle, science-led skin care.